Besides the pleasure in store for the amateur historian (and indeed for the true history scholar), it would be a shame not to convert to the religion of bird-watching if one were contemplating a tourism excursion to Scotland’s Orkney Islands. The expression “Scotland’s” is used advisedly, since while belonging technically entirely to Scotland, this archipelago’s inhabitants, the Orcadians, with their largely Norse and Pictish origins, do not regard themselves as Scots.
A visit to the Orkneys is something of a cultural odyssey; no traveler, no matter how far they may have roamed, is likely to be unmoved by the feeling of remoteness and the astounding history evident in this group of islands.
The Orkney Islands possess an atmosphere conveying ancient spiritual roots. The locals are friendly, and, as for the more urban areas, the capital ” Kirkwall ” has great personality, an impressive expanse of bay where at evening the town’s lights twinkle in the water, and the pretty ruins of Earl Robert’s Palace. Its harbour and sunsets are much praised. But dominating the town, and top of the list of Kirkwall attractions, is the stunning twelfth century St Magnus Cathedral.
History is impossible to ignore in the Orkneys. Fascinating finds were turned up by archaeologists throughout the last century. Orkney has its own “Mainland”, the largest island, and here the parish of Sandwick is the site of Skara Brae. An utterly jaw-dropping, uncannily well-preserved Stone Age settlement, it was, fortuitously brought to light by the force of a destructive storm back in 1850. Unbelievably, there is intact furniture to marvel at, including stone closets and beds.
As for birdlife, no visit to Orkney can be accomplished without at least accidental awareness of our feathered friends. The hen harrier is the iconic bird of the Orkneys, but, arrive at the right time of year, and really rare species, such as the red-rumped swallow, the American golden plover, Franklin’s gull and the great white egret can be spotted.
